5 February 2008
Saint-Paul de Vence, the village time ignored
Posted by Flea under: Photography; The region; Tips and advice .
This weekend I felt I needed a day on my own - a cat needs his personal space to lick his paws, scratch his ears and, most importantly, sleep. So, I sent the courtiers out to entertain themselves and they decided to visit a beautiful “perched village” near Nice on the French Riviera.
Courtier Adrian has rediscovered his obsession with his camera so I thought I’d introduce the first guest post to the blog and let him describe their experience the best way he knows how - with a few pictures. So without further delay, please put your paws together for Courtier Adrian…
Hi all. It’s a privilege to be invited to contribute a guest post to the blog. Below are some of my pictures and observations of this beautiful historical village in Provence. It’s a pleasure to be able to share them with you but it’d be much better if I could take you there in person!
This is the view of Saint-Paul from the public parking area. It isn’t quite as far from the parking area as it appears here - that’s just the effect of the wide angle lens. The village is perched on the top of a hill and is completely surrounded by ramparts built during the Renaissance period. The walls were built to defend against relentless attacks by Charles Quint but one might be forgiven for thinking they were built to keep out time.
Having left the A8 motorway only a few minutes before passing through the entrance to the walled village, you really feel as though you’re passing through some kind of portal to a different time. Places like this enable the imagination to easily conjure up a previous time and you get see the same things that previous inhabitants might have seen centuries ago - almost as though you’re seeing through their eyes and getting a glimpse of their world.
The word ‘quaint’ was created to describe streets and alleys in Saint-Paul.
And the word ‘charming’ was created to describe the houses.
There seems to be some fixation in France with the American Wild West - this French TV ad’ for example. I’ve noticed many shops selling ornaments and nick-nacks and in Saint-Paul I spotted this postbox modeled after a leather saddle bag.
There’s more to the village than just history though - you can lose your head in one of the little jewelry boutiques.
Or, contemplate which unique painting or sculpture to add to your collection from the slew of art galleries and artists’ studios.
The village has always been a popular playground, source of inspiration and home to artists, many of them well known - Matisse and Renoir for example. Its association with the arts, particularly the visual arts, is in evidence everywhere and a slow stroll through the streets and galleries of Saint-Paul is a real treat for lovers of painting and sculpture.
Seeing Auguste Rodin’s ‘The Thinker’ was a real treat for me as it is one of my favourite sculptures and it was quite fitting as the first and last time I saw it was at the Rodin Museum in Paris when Anabela and I first visited France together - almost 10 years ago now!
Finally, here is my “insider’s tip” for when you get to visit Saint-Paul. If you like your food and drink, your final stop should be the little shop called ‘Les Trois Etoiles de Saint-Paul’ on the Place de la Mairie (map). The proprietor makes and sells his own Eaux de Vie, Liqueurs and flavoured oils and vinegars (a few are imported from other regions of France). He is the size of a large bear and has a big heart to match! The range of oils, vinegars and liqueurs varies depending on what is in season but sample a few and observe as your taste buds and olfactory organs loosen those purse strings.
Further information:
Allow about half a day to give yourself time to take a leisurely stroll around the village, enjoy the galleries and studios and pause for a meal in one of the many restaurants. If you want to explore thoroughly and if, like me, you like to stop every two or three steps to take photographs, give yourself a bit more time! Trust me, you don’t want to feel rushed here.
On the subject of restaurants, we ate at a small pizzeria called Un Cœur en Provence which is tucked down the first alley on the right after the main entrance. The decor and atmosphere is cozy and colourful but our savory buckwheat crepes were a tad bland for our tastes. There is plenty to choose from so I’d recommend browsing menus on the way past until somewhere tickles your fancy.
There is accommodation in Saint-Paul if you’d like to stay overnight - I couldn’t imagine a better setting to spend a romantic evening with your chéri!
For further information check out the official website: saint-pauldevence.com
2 Comments so far...
Stephoid Says:
7 February 2008 at 4:47 pm.
Greetings Flea,
I was wondering if you would grace your website with my URL.
Not only do I know one of your courtiers, but there are also a few of cats on my site.
Since nobody ever looks at my site, I thought I might as well see if the animal kingdom is interested in it.
Thank you for your time, O mighty feline.
Steph
Flea Says:
7 February 2008 at 7:16 pm.
Steph, please accept my humble apologies. Your site was in fact on the list when I built the site but I fear I must have deleted it by mistake when I shuffled the categories. Courtier Adrian did ask me to put it in so it’s entirely my fault.
Thanks for visiting!